West Hampstead has a gourmand. His name is Tom. Tom likes to eat and he likes to drink. Thankfully for Tom's waistline he also likes to run a lot. Best of all, Tom likes eating and drinking locally. And now he's going to share his scribbles with us. Tom wants to point out that he's not a wine buff, nor a food expert, he just knows what he likes and he's not afraid to tell us when restaurants get it right, or when they get it wrong. You can .
Did Tom Love Sushi?
Everyone knows a bowl of noodles is a great hangover cure, so I recently tried my own remarkable scientific experiment by doing things in reverse: noodles before launching into the wine. Would this be the first of my self-proclaimed hangover cures to actually work, after the disappointment of late-night asparagus and, more recently, coconut water (wonderful stuff though it is)?
I used to love a small chain called Noodle Bar (now Noodle Nation) - big, bold plates of noodles, beansprouts, fresh, lightly-cooked chunks of veg, and king prawns, with excellent sides of salt & pepper squid and miniature spring rolls. And that's what I was hoping for at Me Love Sushi on West End Lane.
Marinated salmon on soba noodles turned out to be a moderately likeable, if somewhat dull dish. The salmon was slightly over, not marinated in anything aside from air or water, and the noodles were largely absent of the veggies listed above - and what there was were more slivers than chunks.
Across Captain Tom's Table (not bored of that one yet), chicken teriyaki seemed to be decent enough, and the Salice Salentino proved an enjoyable drop of wine.
Dessert was a little weird; a pre-made chocolate tartlet, which held the amazing distinction of being the only tart in the world in which the base had exactly the same texture as the topping!? I'm not sure even Heston could manage that!
Overall then, not bad, but more a case of "me quite like", than "me love". If anything, the meal reminded me it's time for me to revisit somewhere else on West End Lane that really does work wonders for hangovers... Banana Tree. Now that is a place to go for an exciting bowl of noodles - before or after a night on the wine. Actually, before and after, thinking about it. (April 2013)
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Tom swoons in The Black Lion
Stopped off for a jolly good Sunday evening bite to eat in The Black Lion the other week (the West Hampstead one, not the splendid pub in Kilburn which I'm also very fond of).
I was intrigued to try the leek and wild mushroom starter, a little baked pot of warming cheer, topped off with a hen's egg. On the other side of "The Captain's Table" (I can adopt this as my own now that Birds Eye has got itself into this insane horsemeat scandal), some sautéed chicken livers in a port reduction, on ciabatta, were going down a storm. I had a bite myself, and whilst I wouldn't usually order offal, they were absolutely brilliant. Tender and rich, with a sauce of real depth.
Now, if a pub serves fish and chips, you hope it will be good, and when it is, it deserves a mention. I'm pleased to report that The Black Lion's battered haddock and chips were really excellent. A grand portion of delightfully fine, flaky fish, in a crispy, golden batter, with great chips - fantastic. It's a pleasure to eat a classic like this and find it treated with such skill and respect!
I didn't opt for dessert on this occasion (don’t worry, I'm fine - honestly, I'm fine), but the options were tempting, so looking forward to next time.
As with most pubs in the area doing quality food, it does dent your wallet a little to enjoy a slap-up in The Black Lion. But if standards remain high, and you can enjoy really good food to bash that pre-Monday feeling, then I'd rather enjoy myself now, and resign myself to supermarket budget meals in my retirement. Let's just say it won't be via Tesco or Findus "beef" lasagne though! (March 2013)
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Tom's in breakfast heaven
I managed to find an excuse for a couple of West Hampstead breakfasts on a recent weekend and thought I'd briefly compare the merits of two friendly NW6 favourites.
First up, The Kitchen Table, and a nicely presented breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast, baked beans and field mushrooms. The 'Table has quite a reputation, and this was evident in the usual throng of customers. I enjoyed a satisfying plate which eased my hangover considerably; eggs folded rather than all-out scrambled, which I like, and slightly spicy beans in their own little pot. Toast, via excellent bread, was served on the side, so you could choose which elements to pile on. Breakfast should be fun, after all!
Alternatively, how about a bite in Love Food - a venue always full of warm vibes and character? I've been fond of their lovely crêpes for some time but, on this occasion, I grabbed an omelette with toast, plus crumpets (it sounds rather a lot, and happily, indeed it was!) Again, the toast on the side and again, very nicely cooked eggs - this was a fine omelette. They were also accommodating of Miss Fussy Spoon's somewhat customised order (thank goodness for that!) and, even more importantly, Marmite was available.
If I had to choose which venue would come out on top for a hearty start to the day in the neighbourhood... Well, in true Masterchef "can't pick a winner - so you both go through" mode - why not both? After all, by the time you've walked to LoveFood from The Kitchen Table, you'll definitely have earned your second breakfast of the day! So grab a newspaper, settle in, and enjoy a good, long breakfast, or two, West Hampstead style. (February 2013)
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Tom's confused by smoked salmon at La Brocca
Had a nice bowl of pasta in La Brocca last Friday; I was even more hungry than usual, and the idea of penne with smoked salmon in a cream and tomato sauce, was a heartwarming thought on a cold evening (the bar was nice and warm too - that's important - no-one wants to eat in a cold room).
A most enjoyable dish. Although I've always been slightly confused by the idea of cooking with smoked salmon, (kind of feels like it's being done twice - or perhaps one and a half times), it was splendid. The saltiness of the salmon seasoned the plate, and the sauce was very pleasing too - flavoursome, and rich enough to add depth, without being too heavy (though personally, I quite like a thick sauce with pasta anyway - gorgonzola and cream, for example).
All in all a very satisfying way to start off my weekend, especially as the portion size was enormous!
That reminds me...must retreat to the kitchen now for my fourth round of toast. That's what happens when you try and get by with a salad for dinner. (January 2013)
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Tom explains cod at the North London Tavern
Enjoyed a splendid night of food and wine (a very addictive Malbec) in The North London Tavern, Kilburn, over the festive period. It's been one of my favourite boozers for a few years now, somehow combining a bit of everything into a warm, buzzing-but-mellow atmosphere, without ever appearing contrived at all.
I'd planned on trying the gnocchi, but that wasn't on the menu on this occasion, so I opted for baked cod on garlic mash, with green beans and salsa verde. With gastropub style food - and prices - it has to deliver, and I've had plenty of discussion over this issue; one does encounter inconsistency even within the charms of NW6. Thankfully, this was a delicious plate of hangover-busting food. How would you explain perfectly cooked cod, to an alien, I mused later that night, after a substantial amount of port back home. The texture, the way it flakes off, the subtlety of the flavour - really nicely done.
The mash was as smooth as
If looking for any blips, then I'd certainly have eaten double the size of cod fillet, but at least there was plenty of mash. And some butter, by default, for both bread and vegetables, is always nice. That reminds me - a side of curly kale was excellent too (I love the stuff) - generous portion, piping hot and cooked very nicely. OK, it's just kale, but how often do diners get over/undercooked veg? Often!
I'd have managed dessert, but none on the menu for some reason, so I had another glass of that Malbec instead. Suppose I should have had a festive sherry... I wonder if NLT still sells that Pedro Ximénez?
Overall, good work, trusty Tavern. I'm looking forward to some warming gnocchi very soon. (January 2013)
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Tom gets into the Spiga seasonal spirit
Nice little gathering to try Spiga's Christmas menu the other day. As ever, appetising, with lots of their usual favourites on show. The pasta and gnocchi proved popular starters for some, but I tried the baked goats cheese on grilled aubergine and peppers, with balsamic. I'm not usually overly keen on the latter, but this was great! Excellent texture to the cheese, and the sweetness of the dressing worked well with the tanginess of the dish. The smoked salmon looked nice too, with asparagus (which - *important newsflash* - I have just heard is great for avoiding hangovers!) and a poached egg.
Mains were a hit too; there was turkey, a "bang-on" cod (marinated with herbs, in ginger, garlic and chilli sauce), and a baked, layered aubergine dish with tomato and basil sauce, mozarella and rocket, which looked superb - always impressive when a restaurant makes the effort to create really good veggie dishes. I had the sun-dried tomato crusted salmon with a saffron and prosecco sauce - the crust added a subtle extra dimension and the sauce packed lots of flavour. Lovely!
Chocolate tart with strawbs to finish - rather greedily I had one and a half of those, but don't tell anyone. Don't want to get a reputation as a glutton. What? Too late you say??
Wine of the evening was a Côtes du Rhône which seemed to impress all who tried it - excellent drop of festive medicine. I've been drinking a lot of these throughout 2012, and will probably manage one or two more before the year's out.
Off to the North London Tavern tonight; must pick up a decent handful of asparagus on my way home...
Have a fantastic, food-festive new year! (December 2012)
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Tom purrs at Hana's Persian food
On a chilly evening, I was grateful to be invited along with Jonathan to try out Hana, the new Persian restaurant at the West End Green side of town. The venue has gone through a series of changes over the last few years, and the latest incarnation is thankfully quite different to Le Petit Coin, our second ever #whampreview destination some three years ago.
Happily, the neat, clean, nicely-lit room was warm; at this time of year it's really awkward when you walk into a restaurant, then realise it's freezing cold and quickly have to decide whether to make an about-turn or not. (There is one method I personally recommend to help warm up: try The Black Lion's mulled wine as I did on this occasion - it's fantastic).
Having been warmly welcomed by the delightful duo of manageress Alicia, and her very able waitress Pamela, we were guided through the menu. As usual, I was distracted by the wine list and took little in. Starting off with four dips, I was pleased to be warned that the hummus contained a lot of garlic. As @Sparklegirl21 correctly tweeted recently, there’s no such thing as too much garlic. Predictably, this was our favourite, but all four were good, one with spinach, another with cold chicken, and a warm aubergine dip.
The dips came with very thin flatbreads coated in sesame seeds. This thinness allowed them to be devoured without eating too much before mains arrived. When they did, they were well presented and immediately appetising. Jonathan noted that his enjoyable Ghafgazi mixed skewer (£12) - chunky cuts of marinated lamb fillet and chicken - arrived well-grilled, and I thought it had an elegant simplicity to it, with its colourful grilled tomato and perfect saffron rice.
I was drawn towards the Khorosheth Gheymeh, invitingly priced at £7.95. This stew of diced lamb in tomato sauce, split peas and sun-dried limes, topped with finely cut potato chips and rice (I took up the option of adding aubergine for £1), was delicious, and perfect for an icy-cold evening - though I don’t recall the chips being present for some reason! The various elements were warming and blended very well together; well-seasoned, with sweetness, sourness, and a healthy dose of cinnamon. The lamb was tender and flavoursome, and all in all this was an uplifting dish, cheerfully served in an authentic little pot. It's a dish I'd like to have again. Our wine, a Tempranillo, also proved a sound choice.
Some excellent saffron ice cream arrived, accompanied by another plate that is a little hard to explain - a sort of sponge-pancake hybrid wrapped around a soft, sweet, creamy centre, which was quite enjoyable. Having recently mocked me for buying myself some Thornton’s chocolates to enjoy one night, Jonathan now seemed to find it gleefully amusing when I likened our dessert to that traditional family favourite, Arctic Roll!
Hana is something different for West Hampstead. It offers good value, and is only round the corner from plenty of other popular haunts - so I hope plenty of people will make the effort to get along there. Expect smiling, enthusiastic service, and a well thought-out menu that also includes some great-sounding seafood options by the way.
I suggest using the current bone-numbing weather as a very good reason to try Hana, enjoy interesting food in a nice environment, and reminisce about Arctic Roll. And if you're still cold when you leave, pop in to The Black Lion for that piping hot mulled wine.
Happy Christmas, diners - the Port and cheeseboard are not far off now! My advice is to eat, drink, and be merry - and then repeat several times. Cheers! (December 2012)
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Tom goes wild at La Brocca
La Brocca's "Wild Weekend" sounded intriguing, so I raced down there as soon as I could only to find it wasn't some kind of seedy NW6 orgy after all. (That was happening at Lower Ground Bar next door). Instead, this was Brocca's celebration of "the best of wild autumn foods from our sea and forests; game, fish and vegetables including pheasant, venison, wild boar, rabbit, and wild porcini mushrooms" - wonderful.
So, holed-up in the characterful basement restaurant, which I've always liked, we browsed the menu, eager to see what it was all about. The specials were appetising; game, fish, soup... something for everyone.
I chose the sea bass, caper butter and wild mushroom risotto, sacrificing a starter in order to gorge myself on some very decent (and varied) breads, and marinated olives. The risotto was nice, but the sea bass superb - crispy skin to absolute perfection. One point deducted for cold plates and a couple of errors caused by the waiter not writing down our order, but strangely this seems the norm in restaurants these days - can anyone explain why?
As usual, I requested a salad on the side, as I know from experience that chef has a deft touch and knows how to dress leaves with respect. I also love the addition of avocado - one of those magical and quite unique ingredients.
Across the table, Jonathan dived into a vibrant wild mushroom, white wine and garlic sauce starter [J: it was absolutely delicious], then the hunter's game pie on mash with green beans and gravy - which also proved to be a success, though he noted it was perhaps centred solely around venison rather than a combination of game. We both agreed the Chianti was a winner; smooth, soft, but with a subtle, bitter twist, not lacking a finish, and just very satisfying indeed.
On this occasion, I didn’t opt for a dessert - perhaps I’ll have two of them next time. The apple crumble is a particular favourite of mine.
The evening ended on a rather uncharacteristic note, however, when I returned to the upper bar and ordered . . . a glass of water. Yes, I acknowledge this was bizarre and rather worrying behaviour - however as I type I am enjoying a complex Crozes Hermitage; rumours of my liver’s demise have been greatly exaggerated. Give me time though! (November 2012)
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Tom dives into Spiga's new menu
With a fair degree of enthusiasm, three of us rolled up at Spiga (via a quick one in The Gallery), in order to check out their recently revised menu - the first overhaul since it opened just over a year ago.
I've actually been meaning to grab a pizza at Sarracino next door for a while, but it's nice that there's variation in Italian food in town, and indeed within Broadhurst Gardens. I love Spiga's food; by my own admission I have a healthy appetite, and so it was to my taste that the latest menu seemed to emphasize big, hearty dishes. Is it getting too clichéd to say "rustic" too?
Starters arrived, and I enjoyed the freshness and well-judged cooking of my fritto misto; clearly quality seafood, and something I'd eat as a main (which was an available option). Next to me, the caprino al forno was going down well; oven-baked goat's cheese in sesame seed crust, grilled veggies, plus a sweet and sour balsamic reduction. We all agreed the sesame seed crust was an interesting, and successful idea.
Cacciucco alla livornese was perhaps the standout at this stage; a "traditional Tuscan soup with a variety of fish, fresh tomato, wine, chilli and parsley, served with toasted garlic bread" - enticing. I'm glancing at the menu now (hence able to name the dishes verbatim) and note this is not offered as a main - perhaps would be a nice option? It's the type of thing I actually bother to cook at home, though toast and Marmite perhaps better reflects my natural skills set in the kitchen; I'm better with a corkscrew than an an oven.
Now well into the swing of things, helped along by an excellent Chianti, the three of us shared two pastas. The tortelloni of chicken, veal and herbs in a porcini mushroom sauce was as rich and flavoursome as one would expect, accompanied by a non-meat option: ricotta, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and nutmeg, tossed in butter and sage - delicious. (Also pleased to note that the gorgonzola and wild mushroom gnocchi is still on the menu, and that the peas poached in stock remain as a welcome and enjoyable freebie - they seem to go well with everything).
We were perhaps a little full once mains arrived, but my pan-fried salmon with prawns and capers in a Prosecco wine sauce, with sautéed spinach was, quite simply, the sort of food I want to eat - again and again. Bold flavours, yet the salmon was not overpowered.
Fillet of beef, wild mushrooms and porcini sauce, with gnocchi tossed in butter and sage was also a hit - as was the roast corn-fed chicken breast filled with mozzarella, tomato sauce provençale and rice.
Spiga remains very good value; somehow they combine quality of ingredients, a high degree of both skill and flair in the kitchen (and clearly a lot of passion too) - with generous portions that will challenge the hungriest of diners (me, basically).
It's not hard to see why a certain friend of mine practically lives there, and if a spare room to let becomes available, perhaps I'll be following suit! (November 2012)
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Tom says Ciao to Kilburn
Walking down the Kilburn High Road on a Sunday, in a bit of a Côtes du Rhône Villages daze (L’Arnesque 2009 from Oddbins the previous evening - fantastic bottle of wine), I walked past a specials board enthusiastically highlighting a goat cheese omelette, chips, salad and freshly-squeezed orange juice, for the reasonable price of £6.95. Accordingly, I retraced my steps and took up a seat in Ciao Ciao, where Italian football was showing, and customers relaxed outside and in. Well, most customers relaxed; unfortunately the “gentleman” next to me proceeded to repeatedly snuffle, sniff and snort like some kind of deranged farmyard animal. “Why me?” I self-pitifully whined to myself, as I imagined how I could possibly enjoy food in such circumstances.
Cheese omelettes are weird in the sense that you’re adding protein to protein; nothing wrong with that though, and this being rough ‘n’ tumble KHR I looked forward to a hunger-bashing 3-egger at the very least. Whilst waiting expectantly, a slight hitch was explained by the very sweet waitress; they’d run out of fresh juice but I could have ‘normal’ orange juice instead. Not the end of the world, though I noted that big grocery shop almost next door, and all the other shops selling fruit outside. (I once spotted one of the Tiffin Tin chefs pegging it up the road having sourced a solitary carrot from George’s on Mill Lane - rather odd in a number of ways!)
Anyway, food arrived, and right away I could see that these guys knew how to make a decent omelette. None of that stupid Saturday Kitchen ‘challenge’ nonsense here. Very neat, well cooked at the edges, and a touch baveuse in the middle (please tell me that’s the right word and spelling, I’m not Googling it a third time) - with the familiar, melting tang of goat cheese working very well indeed. However (adopts serious face and raised eyebrows) - this was clearly only a 2-egger (damn!), and being lightly cooked and straight onto a cold plate, was a little lukewarm. Chips and salad were fine, and always reassuring to find a bottle of tomato ketchup readily available.
I was just a little disappointed to be charged the full price given the orange juice thing, especially with the omelette being a little lightweight, and then seeing Brondes Age next door offering up a full brekko for £5. But perhaps I’ll pop back sometime, (maybe on one of their jazz nights?), as Ciao’s a cheery little place with some simple, reliable menu options for a Sunday hangover - pizza, pasta, baked potatoes, salads etc..
Perhaps I’ll pop next door first though, and bring along an extra egg and a handful of oranges! (October 2012)
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Tom checks out Babur Empire
What to eat on a very warm, sticky, humid evening? A refreshing, chilled summer soup? A Greek salad? Some ice-cream? (errm, yes, actually..)
Or alternatively....a nice, hot, spicy curry!
Having enjoyed several deliveries from the excellent Tiffin Tin on Mill Lane recently, I decided on a more traditional style for my latest banquet and it was a good chance to check up on Babur Empire (also Mill Lane) following its recent change in management.
Although a king prawn rogan josh isn’t on the menu, I know from experience that they’re happy to knock one up if requested, so I went for this old favourite, along with a saag aloo and a roti bread.
My dinner arrived quickly, which was good, as I get very irritable if I sense a driver's got lost and, as ever, it was delivered with the friendliness that I'm used to from these fine gentlemen.
Pleased to report...delicious food! As I’ve often said, if an establishment treats prawns with respect, it is often indicative of overall standards - and these were good prawns, lightly cooked, in a rich, buttery, tomatoey sauce. (Not sure why, but I love the word “tomatoey”. It is how tomatoes would describe themselves, if they could speak). There was an appropriate heat to the dish, perhaps less so than last time, but kind of there in the background in a pleasing way; and the flavours were rounded and bold - possibly the best rogan josh I’ve had from Babur.
Now, side orders can be a little predictable with traditional Indian food, can’t they? Not that this is a problem, but it should be pointed out here that my saag aloo was also particularly flavoursome. Really well-seasoned and balanced - it matched up well to the main dish. Adding to the fun was a decent roti bread, which I enthusiastically used to scoop up excess sauce. Tomatoey sauce.
Although a Pinot Noir doesn’t seem immediately suitable to accompany such cuisine, the one I was guzzling on this occasion worked out OK, partly due to its character and edge. From the Casablanca Valley in Chile, a somewhat unusual and fascinating wine, which gradually grew on me when I used to drink it very regularly indeed in La Brocca. Earthy, savoury, a touch of herbs, and other things which I’m too stupid to pick out properly. A few months back, I asked some locals sitting at the bar why this wine was no longer available? “You’ve drunk it all”, a lady casually replied.
To sum up then; whilst I love the modern, rather refined dishes of places liked Tiffin Tin and Holy Cow, I also remain very fond of the more old-school curries and their familiar, indulgent style. If you too enjoy the latter, do try Babur sometime. Heartwarming, satisfying food from a long-established local restaurant. And an excellent excuse, (as if we need one!), to experiment with wine and food matching. (August 2012)
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Tom does the maths at Spiga and Small & Beautiful
E=MC2. No - I’ve never really understood it either. And anyway, eating and drinking is much more fun than algebra. With that in mind, it’s time for a couple of shout-outs to two NW6 eateries which seem to consistently get their calculations right. First off, Spiga. We’re lucky with Italian food here; we have La Smorfia, Hidden Treasure and Sarracino, all offering a different vibe and style, whether pizza, pasta, or something else. There’s “J” and Pizza Express too, come to think of it, and La Brocca also does a mean pizza.
At my recent outing to Spiga I dived straight in with the bresaola to start with. I had a feeling this would be a winner and indeed it was. A vibrant and appetising crimson colour, generous portion size, and the blend of wild mushrooms, Parmesan shavings and rocket it was served on really made for an enticing starter. Continuing the theme, I rather greedily had a main of gnocchi with more wild mushrooms, and a Gorgonzola sauce. Here we go, my kind of food! Big, satisfying, bold....so much going on! The warmest of service (as ever), and plenty of good wine, added to my now jovial frame of mind. It’s not difficult to see why Spiga has quickly become such a success, especially when you find it's not as expensive as you might have expected.
Fast forward a couple of weeks, and the good value experienced at Spiga left me with some loose change with which to pop into Small & Beautiful in Kilburn, for a nice, relaxing late dinner. My favourite seat by the window was free, and I browsed the menu whilst chortling at the usual comedy that is the Kilburn High Road. Or maybe that was my reflection in the window. From the “3 courses for £6” option (I’m not joking), I tried broccoli soup (decent), and added a salad which included pleasing feta and great olives. The main was the standout: Vietnamese fish (can’t remember which - I did ask - perhaps that Cobbler thing but under its more scientific name) with a pesto coating, a potato side and spinach. Really, surprisingly delicious! With enthusiasm I tackled (as if it were a challenge - ha!) the Tiramisu, which was sponge-based rather than matching the menu’s “biscuit and cream” description. Guzzling a Shiraz, I had the rare experience of looking at a bill and being genuinely amazed at how little it had all come to.
E=MC2. Whatever! Pour me another glass someone...all this maths is making my head spin! Enjoyable food, wine and ambience - all at friendly prices - that’s more the sort of equation I want to puzzle over.
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Tom finds room for a Wet Fish crumble
Valiantly battling a vicious hangover, following another all-dayer comparing Sunday pub roasts in NW London (yes, life’s hard), I struggled along to The Wet Fish Café for a spot of Monday-blues-bashing lunch.
Things got off to a promising start when my soya latte was delivered, as requested, extra hot. They probably think I’m a real loser, spoiling their quality coffee in this manner, but that’s how I like it... and it was lovely.
Having eaten half a ton of assorted animals the previous day, something healthy seemed sensible, especially as I needed to speed up the healing of my hand injury, which I assume everyone in London is well aware of by now. And, before you worry further, yes, I can still open a bottle of wine with a normal, non-cheating corkscrew.
So, my “breakfast salad” arrived; an instantly appetising plate of herbed scrambled eggs, diced tomato with shreds of red onion, feta, spinach, and joyously ripe avocado (a word I can never spell without, errm, a spellchecker) - and some toasted brown bread which was great; satisfying, chewy texture yet crisp at the edges. Proper bread maketh proper toast.
Hard to find fault; the eggs were especially fine, the spinach fresh, though perhaps cherry tomatoes would be even more pleasing to go with the feta, and I could have managed a couple more of the toasts, with some Marmite also in attendance (probably available had I asked).
Sensing my hangover needed one final battering, I checked out the day’s counter cakes, and the menu’s dessert options. Like an arrow zoning in on a bullseye, my gaze focussed very quickly on the rhubarb and apple crumble with cinnamon and raisin ice cream. Wow - superb! The balance of acidity and sweetness was perfect, and the ice cream was really special.
So there you have it. The Wet Fish Cafe - it’s almost worth deliberately inducing a hangover for! (April 2012)
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Tom's bowled over by Guglee
Just reporting for duty, a little late, on an excellent evening with Jonathan at Guglee, West End Lane's newest curry house.
Owners Sachin and Nikhil had kindly offered us a meal in order to test out the menu, which was particularly interesting for me as I’d not yet visited their Finchley Road branch.
We got off to a great start with a mixed grill platter. The meats were cooked and spiced with flair and skill, and I would have happily eaten these as a main meal with rice and naan. I’m fond of this type of thing; I prefer leaner, slightly drier cuts than, for example, French cuisine, where “the glory is in the fat” - as more than one big-name chef has put it. Not to knock classic cooking of course, but it’s a nice feeling to be eating wonderful food that’s healthy too.
As for wine - something a little different - an Indian Shiraz. This was good stuff, with spice to match the food, but perhaps rounder and mellower than your average New World version. It also had something in particular which I just couldn’t place. You’d think drinking wine all the time for years on end would result in a more advanced palate; in my case it’s just eroded my memory cells and made me shake violently in terror whenever my wine rack’s empty.
Main meals arrived looking proud and a touch regal, and I was extremely happy to see a seafood dish present, not only because I love this type of food, but also as I’m always keen to see how curry establishments handle such things. Guglee clearly takes prawns etc. seriously, and this was another flavoursome, gutsy dish. It had an earthiness to it and was just all-round pleasing and delicious.
The “Railway Lamb” was brilliant; tender and rich, with various dimensions. When you head out for a curry, you anticipate interesting, bold flavours, and decent portions. Some of the new, modern curry houses have become a little twee and delicate for me; Guglee gets the balance right though; you won’t go home hungry, and you’ll be remembering the flavours and textures.
Also warranting a mention is the aubergine side dish - a tangy, yoghurt base, and appetising in colour; also the sophisticated, thin naan bread, and of course the fragrant rice.
It was a pleasure to chat with the enthusiastic staff and learn more about their menu and vision, and I’m looking forward to a return visit and more intriguing, spicy food - and further depletion of brain cells via that warm and friendly Shiraz. (March 2012)
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Tom refuels at Woody Grill
Whilst stumbling home with a friend at 1am recently, in ludicrously cold conditions I might add, we popped into Woody Grill on the Kilburn High Road, to politely enquire as to whether they might still be serving grub?
“As long as you’re not staying until after 4am, this is fine” came the somewhat proud reply. Excellent!
I wanted something light, and although the manager modestly advised me that “this is not the best place for vegetarian food”, my falafel in pitta with salad was absolutely fine; lots of it; really good value.
Rounding off the fun was a very decent (and piping hot) latte - again costing little - and provision of a Turkish tea of some kind for fuss-pot friend, even though it wasn’t listed on the menu.
Sometimes it’s all about refuelling, and a late-night diversion somewhere unpretentious and friendly. Plenty of such options on the High Road of course - and Woody Grill is certainly one of them. Now, if they could only introduce a bring-your-own-wine policy or get fully licensed, we’d try out their 4am lock-in. (February 2012)
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Tom goes upmarket
Like hardened SAS assassins crossing a heavily guarded border, we bravely fought off icy winds and snow to enjoy a complimentary menu test at One Blenheim Terrace, St. John’s Wood, via a quick, warming nip in The Salt House.
Immediately apparent as smart and upmarket, the friendly greeting preventing things from being over-formal, my initial concern was would they let someone as scruffy and yob-like as me onto the premises? Fortunately, they did.
The menu lists classic dishes, which are then twisted a little and modernised in the kitchen; pleasingly, it was difficult to make a decision initially, due to the appealing options presented.
Starting with a "welsh rarebit", I received a delicate yet rich little combination of soufflé, white onion & cider soup, cheddar croutons and roast button onions. Strong flavours and a satisfying mix of textures - a clever and quite delicious plate.
Jonathan went with the organic cured salmon in a cucumber consommé (the full, intriguing description stating also oak smoke, miso caramel, pickled cauliflower, and coriander cress) and this was a great success too: "Excellent. A reminder of summer on a snowy evening".
Next up for me was the bouillabaisse. This focused on various market fish rather than including shellfish and, with its powerful base, saffron potatoes and lightly cooked fennel, there were contrasts and dimensions to the dish that were interesting and moreish. A trio of vegetables were requested, which arrived as a little salad, broccoli, and the highlight; duck fat roast potatoes, which were (no need for any foodie terms here), amazing!
Jonathan seemed pleased with his whole boned wood pigeon, foie gras, forest mushrooms, beetroot, roast potato, and pear, although he requested it without the beetroot, as this, I gather, makes his ears glow purple and flash on and off. "A no nonsense game bird cooked extremely well", apparently - and believe me, he knows all about no-nonsense, game birds.
With both eager anticipation and pure gluttony, I looked forward to chef’s take on black forest gateaux to finish with. A crisp dark chocolate exterior gave way to various delights, with a bit of booze and a jammy cherry sauce. A brittle base added crunch, and all in all this was a surprisingly fulsome dessert and a nice way to end.
From the interesting wine list I went for the Chilean carmenère, a grape which, I gather, is hard to get exactly right and requires quite specific conditions and terroir (I’m making this up, but who cares, it sounds correct). This was well described by our waiter (service was excellent throughout, I should add) - and most enjoyable. Suffice it to say, I stayed with this drop for the whole evening. Jonathan was impressed with the selection by the glass, while I was pleased with the elegant, tasting-style glasses.
We twice received an amuse-bouche between courses; both were fun, the latter slightly dividing our opinion with its popcorn warm milkshake / cream idea, served in a small cylindrical vessel.
One Blenheim is a classy restaurant with flair and confidence oozing from its pores - and kitchen. Perhaps next time I’ll adapt a radical change of image and arrive in a jacket, and just for once, without broken headphones draped round my shoulders; this restaurant warrants such respect. (February 2012)
* * *
Tom's Tavern Tart
I was lazily leaning against the Priory Tavern bar (or the other way round) drinking Malbec at the recent #whampgather event, when a mysterious rumour emerged that a freshly baked tart had just become available. Having only eaten a few slices of toast before heading out, this suddenly seemed like a very good idea indeed (especially as @jennifercairn was kindly buying - I think she and hubby @anthonymarsh had already 'warmed up' with a burger).
It sounded divine - apple and pear tart with an elderflower whipped cream (hope this is right - I'd had a few by then, and this is going to look rather silly if someone pipes up that it was blueberry crumble or something) - and I was not disappointed! A delicate lattice of pastry with a perfect texture was very nicely countered by what I think was boozed-soaked fruit, juicy, sweet and delicious. The elderflower whipped cream was marvellous, and the portion size generous (though I'd happily eat two of them of course). All thoroughly enjoyable and expertly made.
As for the rest of the evening; well, I can't really remember all that much. What I do recall though, is just how very fine that apple & pear tart was. Next time, perhaps I'll see how well it matches up with a nip of Port... (January 2012)
* * *
Tom has a Moment
"Hmmm, shall I be healthy and have a salad?" I mused, knowing full well I would also be ordering a bowl of fries... "salad's a bit dull on a cold afternoon, but this array of ingredients looks nice, especially the addition of mint, parsley and radish."
So it was to my considerable dismay that my salad (and huge bowl of chips) duly arrived, minus any trace of those last two items..
I've never understood this irritatingly common problem; if you order something off a menu, it stands to reason that you like the description, and therefore would expect everything listed to be present? Is it careless forgetfulness, or laziness in re-stocking ingredients that can be located a few doors away at the greengrocers? How about I "forget" to pay the full amount?
The fries were pleasing, and a bagel appeared which actually wasn't expected - though some butter would have been good. I did manage (yet again - I am so ingenious) to invent a new dish - folded semi-bagel chip butties. Patent applied for.
I like Moment; the staff are warm, there's a nice selection of cakes, and if I ask for a latte which is actually hot (I know - such a strange request - well, apparently so judging by most places), they deliver. But I'm now a little put off my original intention of working my way through some other options on their interesting, varied menu. I guess I'm due another visit to the splendid Lena's Café 2 - so perhaps my salad adventures will continue there next time.
The lesson to be learned here is clear; in depressing, Wintery weather, don't faff about - source a pie and some mulled wine, and leave the healthy rubbish for new year resolutions.
Happy Christmas everyone! (December 2011)
* * *
Tom tries Costello
Looking for an excuse to eat something good on a Friday evening, I made my way along to West End Lane’s latest newcomer, Costello, where, together with Jonathan, we'd very kindly been offered dinner on the house.
Our attentive and wonderfully sparkly-eyed waitress looked after us well (I’m trying to tone down my waitress comments - I’ll get shot one of these days), and I nodded enthusiastically whilst simultaneously forgetting everything she told us about the evening’s specials.
Anyway, I started with a risotto of woodland mushrooms, peas, Parmesan and truffle oil. Portion size was vast - we later learned this was a deliberate ploy to offer value - and value this was, because here was quality as well as quantity. Without doubt, a magnificent dish; deep, strong flavours blending together, and with the viscosity and texture of the rice spot on. We discovered via the manager, Colin, that the head chef (his brother) is a connoisseur of risotto and actually tests other establishments’ versions to gauge his own; this attention to detail shows.
Pausing to gulp a little (OK, a lot) of the excellent Australian Shiraz, I looked on with wide eyes as my scallop dish appeared. Several voluminous specimens, on little pea “pancakes”, with a garlic cream sauce and slithers of smoked bacon (yes - sounds nice doesn’t it!) With such big molluscs, Jonathan wondered whether they’d be cooked through; they were absolutely on the edge - but done - and therefore wonderful. This is where I became further impressed; as with my starter, the sheer intensity of flavours was again very much in evidence. The garlic cream sauce was powerful and rich, but I felt the scallops stood up to it, perhaps evidence of their freshness.
Jonathan was maybe a little less lucky with his choices; his grilled chicken, cinnamon apple and black pudding intro not quite hitting the mark on texture or balance. His main course salmon was flaky and pink, but the spicy skin hadn’t quite worked and the asparagus looked a little sorry on the plate [Ed: cold plates also didn't help]. I feel this was justice; he never seems to do any work, eats out every day, and drinks even more than me yet doesn’t seem to get hangovers [Ed: not sure ANY of those things are strictly true!].
I genuinely didn’t have need or capacity for dessert on this occasion, but noted that Costello bake their own as well as ordering in from a posh supplier in Primrose Hill. I had a glance at the options in their sweet cabinet or whatever it’s called, and there were plenty I’d happily try especially having seen Jonathan's apple cake, which he assured me was excellent.
So, a thoroughly enjoyable evening, and I’ll no doubt report back again soon on the cakes and things. In the meantime, I heartily recommend a visit; just ensure you haven’t already had a big full-English for breakfast and a pizza for lunch. Or, invite me along too and perhaps I’ll assist you in demolishing another risotto. (November 2011)
* * *
Tom ventures into Kilburn
With cold, gloomy weather drawing in, a moment of inspiration led to a decision to eat at Small and Beautiful on the Kilburn High Road. I had fond memories of my previous visit; getting totally mashed in complete anguish after missing the 1st half of a Pink Martini gig, donating a packet of Silk Cut to that tramp who used to sit under the bridge (oh - he seems to have disappeared since), and ending up eating as good a salmon dish as I'd had all week. Errm, all year I mean.
I never order risotto as not dead keen on it, so - I ordered seafood risotto (this is the kind of logic my life is based on). A nice dish; not a huge depth of flavour, but hearty enough, and with a decent texture to the rice. A side of Macedonian salad arrived, with tangy feta and soft, flavoursome olives.
Opposite me, a spaghetti bolognese was being enthusiastically tackled. More "mum's" than "mama's" - a very generous portion of the sauce whacked unpretentiously on top of the pasta. I was assured this was appropriate and delicious.
House wine (something Italian) was tangy and fulsome, and a banoffee pie for dessert was eaten quickly even by my own disgraceful standards. As ever, the atmosphere was warm and cheery, balanced with one or two possibly shady characters present (aside from myself I mean).
So in summary, as with all my previous visits, I came out of Small and Beautiful a happy and satisfied diner, and with enough money left over to buy a bottle of wine. Now that alone is surely good reason to eat there more often. (November 2011)
* * *
Tom enjoys sardines at Sirous
Always a pleasure to wander into Sirous on a lazy Sunday afternoon, especially when the intention is to eat and drink something from its varied and interesting menu. I have been known to scowl angrily at people who've already pinched all the comfortable, red leather sofa spaces, which is quite reasonable behaviour I think - but on my most recent visit I was in luck.
I enjoyed grilled sardines, with an immensely satisfying bowl of potato skins; crisp, yet with an oiliness ideal for combating hangovers. The guacamole was great too, and I enthusiastically alternated this with tomato ketchup, rather like a girl out shopping trying on two different pairs of shoes over and over again.
Sirous' house red is a Crianza; I used to think "vanilla cream" descriptions were bandied about too often and sometimes a little bit silly - but this is a wine that fits the description. Really lovely stuff. I'll be very happy to share a whole bottle with myself sometime soon. (October 2011)
* * *
Tom gets autumnal at The Gallery
A gang of cheery West Hampstead locals descended upon The Gallery in Broadhurst Gardens to drink wine, talk rubbish, and have a bite to eat on Saturday night. I'd already had dinner of sorts (something I kept quiet), but the menu tempted me, partly as I'd been meaning to try the Autumn salad for a while. Tangy, creamy goat's cheese worked well with little bricks of sautéed sweet potato, on a bed of leaves (salad ones, not leaves from the pavement outside). At £7, it wasn't too expensive a dish, but for me a little light; next time I'll happily eat the same, but accompanied by breads or chips.
Other plates around the table were very well received, such as the salmon, and lamb, both of which were also elegantly presented. I liked the Chilean Merlot, and the Pinot Grigio seemed popular too. All things considered, it's easy to see why this bar is popular.
Glancing up at the drinkers above us looking down on proceedings, reminded me of one of my typically gormless comments a year or so ago, when I lazily asked "why's this place called The Gallery?". Sometimes, I'm better off keeping quiet and just sticking to my drinking.(September 2011)
* * *
Tom sinks his teeth into Gourmet Burger Kitchen
After a tough week entombed in an office, it seemed logical to grab a red in La Brocca, then head for Gourmet Burger Kitchen for much-needed Friday night nourishment.
Settling into our seats, our host explained the options and ordering process, which was appreciated, as I have been known to get a little confused over ‘assemble your meal’ type menus. From memory (or what’s left of it!) - I recall three white and three red wines, and we selected a Kiwi Pinot Noir - its medicinal properties well received by these two work-weary diners.
On to the main attractions: I tried a traditional cheese-topped burger, which arrived medium as recommended. A nicely proportioned burger; large, but not so large that greedy people such as myself cannot eat it in the old-fashioned, hands-to-mouth way. The meat had flavour, and worked well with the melted cheddar, as anticipated. Decent chips appeared, along with an impressive bowl of complimentary onion rings, sliced jalepenos, and dips. We noted that vegetarians are well looked-after at GBK, with the veggie burgers’ descriptions sounding as appealing as any others.
Equally pleasing was the side salad (and you know my views on salads!); fresh ingredients, subtle dressing, plenty of ripe avocado, and (hurrah!) semi-dried tomatoes among cherry ones. All in all, there was a quality feel to the grub, which perhaps goes some way to explaining the quite high prices.
Thinking back, the menu was imaginatively designed, with each option appetising due to well-chosen accompaniments to the burgers. Again, this is a challenge for someone like me who wants to eat everything on the menu; but it is welcome to see something basic like a burger given a bit of care and thought, whilst not over-complicating or detracting from the meaty slab in the bun.
Overall then, GBK certainly does enough to draw in hungry locals, and substantial food of this nature is of course very good reason to consume equally substantial amounts of wine. See you there sometime! (September 2011)
Tom is entertained at The Arches
The Arches was excellent last night; I had the special of cod fillet in tempura batter, with chips, and the whole thing was a demonstration in perfect execution - superb - right down to the quality of the rich tartare sauce. Friend loved his smoked duck salad starter and meatball linguine, and we managed dessert too (I'm full of surprises!)
We happily absorbed a Marlborough Pinot Noir, then a Malbec, and "entertainment" was provided via the adjacent table, from where Keith Floyd's apparent long-lost brother proceeded to bombard us with a series of ever more ludicrous tales, whilst his partner looked on, nonplussed. Landing planes without lights in total darkness, unlikely prison terms, unlimited wives, and relatives seemingly inventing everything but the wheel. With his penchant for adventure, I was tempted to politely request that he headed for The Kilburn High Road without delay. (September 2011)
Tom looks forward to old age
I hope I'm still eating and drinking in La Brocca aged 87!
Tom loves La Brocca
Enjoyed a double-dose of La Brocca food last weekend... My favourite moments were the gnocchi; bubbling hot, with nips of basil adding occasional zest to an already delicious dish, and the fennel & endive salad, as ever respectfully dressed.
The best was reserved for last though; a quite delightful apple and caramel crumble, which, due to its generous proportions, I was happy to share just for once.
That's a thought... how about a giant-sized apple crumble, as a main meal? See, I'm full of good ideas after a bottle and a half of Shiraz...(September 2011)
Tom roadtests Spiga
I was pleased to have an opportunity to check out Spiga, the new Italian restaurant on Broadhurst Gardens, especially having drunkenly glanced at the menu in advance via Jonathan’s pre-opening photo exclusive, and seen various things I immediately felt an urgent, pressing need to eat.
In terms of "barometers of quality", bread, olives, and house wine are all good indicators, and we got off to a flying start on all three counts. There was a standard white bread, a rosemary focaccia, and two varieties of "giant crisps" – one pleasingly oily, the other drier, like a poppadom. And big, proud triangles of butter too! The olives were wonderful, in a garlicy oil, the green ones vibrant in colour – luminous almost (v. useful in a power cut).
The house red, a Sangiovese and Merlot blend, went down very easily indeed, earthy soft tannins and not lacking a finish. In hindsight we should have ordered a second bottle, to test its hangover rating. Next time.
To start off the fun I tried the asparagus with poached organic egg and parmesan shavings. Here, I do think a touch of first night nerves were in evidence, with the egg being rather too…errm...soft – the yolk not quite turning from watery to oozing yellowy. However the asparagus was marvellous; giant-size spears and cooked delicately. The dish perhaps needed a pinch of salt, but very enjoyable.
Somehow managing not to overdose on the aforementioned bread, next up was my grilled tuna steak on rocket and mixed peppers, with a sweet and sour balsamic. It’s a combination I’ve had at Base on Baker Street in the past, and was very well executed. The tuna respectfully done; not overcooked, and the balsamic (something I’m not usually mad about) tastefully judged. Just from a personal angle, I’d prefer something a little less sweet, and firmer in texture than the slithery little peppers; perhaps some semi-dried tomatoes? Accompanying my generous tuna was a side of hand-cut chips, and in another pointer to a chef who knows what he’s doing, these were excellent; old-style in size (i.e. not big, fat wedges – not that I dislike those, obviously!) and with a pleasing exterior and a dash of salt. Overall then, a splendid, satisfying main course.
I’m babbling on a bit more than usual (and this is without a drink in hand), but dessert warrants a few details too; a chocolate torte with mascarpone and strawberries – a very generous slice – was delicious. The texture of the pastry was bang-on, with a thick, gooey swamp of dark chocolate on top.
As Jonathan reported, the charming Sandra was all too pleased to chat and tell us a little about their venture, and there was a feeling of combined warmth and confidence in the service, which added to the occasion.
All in all then, a very welcome addition to the local selection of eateries, and I won’t be leaving it too long before heading back there to try the gnocchi… and another slice of the chocolate torte too no doubt.
Welcome, Spiga! (August 2011)
Tom takes tea at Lena's
I spent an hour chilling out with my brother Bong in Lena’s Café 2 (he’s a campanologist, before you jump to the wrong idea)
I like the bright orange and yellow colour scheme in there, and I’m sure it’s this as well as the remarkable array of salads, and baskets of fruit and vegetables on display, that attracts people passing by and lures them in. I'm also fairly sure the girl who works there thinks I’m a bit of a lunatic (quite reasonable), as several times I’ve marched up and down, closely auditing all the salads and cakes, whilst taking photographs, sometimes from odd, unnecessary angles.
Anyway, despite only purchasing pots of Earl Grey, the manager – who turns out to be the chef too – kindly brought over complimentary baklava. I know they say big hits of sugar aren’t too good for you, but I must say I felt very good indeed after eating mine, and could have happily demolished a couple more. There are lots of nice ideas going on in Lena's, and I look forward to lunch there soon.
PS: Wikipedia helpfully advises that baklava is... "not to be confused with balaclava". Thanks for the advice, Wiki! (August 2011)
Genetics
In case you wonder where Tom gets his apprecation for food from, this attack by his mum on underwhelming restaurant salads should make it crystal clear:
Tom dives into the menu at Mill Lane Bistro
Popped into the bistro for some well-earned dinner... Starters took a fair while - the place was busy and buzzing as usual - but that gave us a chance to savour a fine Languedoc wine, a Picpoul de Pinet that had a mineral edge to it that somehow reflected the ominous end-of-summer weather (not quite sure how, but it did!)
I kicked off the fun with deep-fried Camembert on a beetroot and walnut salad. Very nice, though the "home made" croutons were absent (not that you'd expect bought-in croutons this side of Garfunkel's?!). Tried the baked cod next; an elegant-looking dish, perhaps could have come out of the oven a fraction earlier, but the firm texture worked well on the bed of spinach, I thought. Potatoes too - in a sort of caper butter or something (delicious). The bread was satisfyingly chewy, but comically tiny - I would happily have had three baskets of it - with butter too preferably.
I do love this place as it feels like a proper little slice of France right there on Mill Lane. I find it particularly gratifying to be referred to as "monsieur" (I'm easily pleased!).
Grabbed profiteroles for dessert - wonderful! Two tennis ball sized gems with gorgeous ice cream and chocolate sauce; also a glass of Burgundy that had a really intoxicating nose - next time I'm going to tan a whole bottle of that, been meaning to for a while actually.
Nice to see this place such a success; it's a cheery and uplifting way to start the weekend.(August 2011)
Tom visits The Arches
I had an impromptu dinner at The Arches last night...good food.. I had a Moroccan chick pea soup to start, then baked whole sea bass - very nice. Excellent sautéed potatoes, with that dry, crisp outside. I wondered if they did those with goose fat or something but the waitress just said "deep fried in oil". Pleasingly large cheesecake to finish, and 4 glasses of Pinot Noir which I was surprised to find later on was Chilean (I thought it was French, but not a Burgundy). Looking back, it did have similarities to that Chilean drop I like to guzzle in Brocca. Checked the bill today, a bit cheeky, the 2nd two glasses were large ones - I was drinking 175s at first - no wonder I have a frigging hangover! (August 2011)
Tom eats cheese at Mill Lane Bistro
I ate alone - just a cheeseboard - in the bistro last week, and that lovely French girl came straight over to chat and explain the cheeses as if it were a tasting menu. THAT is good service and food. I was a bit miffed they were totally out of all salad items and the cod - even more annoying when the woman next to me turned out to be eating the last of the latter! (August 2011)
Tom's baffled by La Smorfia
Enjoyed the food, but there were minus points which, given the stiff competition, confuse me. The pizza was very good; really flavoursome and satisfying. One of the ingredients - anchovy - was very sparse. Admittedly this pizza (Trappola) had quite a few toppings, but the anchovy is obviously important. Still, nice food.
Now here's my first gripe; you know my thoughts on side salads - they should not be a token gesture. I ordered a mixed salad, and there was nothing awful about it, basically it felt like some assorted leaves from a supermarket packet. They chose to lob in a few olives, pretty cheap ones. Now, I like those, I buy them, but if you're going to add olives, use proper marinated ones or something. Further, the tomato slices were completely flavourless and out of the fridge. If you go to a restaurant, surely you want it to be as good as, or better than, what you'd do at home? And not just 'good', but interesting. I fail to understand how things like this are given such lack of thought. I am fussy, but this is West Hampstead - the competition is out there and I would guess that other locals would be similarly interested in detail.
Strada have done great side salads on most occasions, and you also get a salt mill with either rock or sea salt - again makes a difference. I had no salt at all on my table.
Nice big glass of pleasing house wine. Good but somewhat blank-faced service - certainly didn't strike me as "ooh - new customer - let's pull the stops out" - though a free little bruschetta bite was appreciated.
No sweet menu forthcoming so I went home. (July 2011)
Settling into our seats, our host explained the options and ordering process, which was appreciated, as I have been known to get a little confused over ‘assemble your meal’ type menus. From memory (or what’s left of it!) - I recall three white and three red wines, and we selected a Kiwi Pinot Noir - its medicinal properties well received by these two work-weary diners.
On to the main attractions: I tried a traditional cheese-topped burger, which arrived medium as recommended. A nicely proportioned burger; large, but not so large that greedy people such as myself cannot eat it in the old-fashioned, hands-to-mouth way. The meat had flavour, and worked well with the melted cheddar, as anticipated. Decent chips appeared, along with an impressive bowl of complimentary onion rings, sliced jalepenos, and dips. We noted that vegetarians are well looked-after at GBK, with the veggie burgers’ descriptions sounding as appealing as any others.
Equally pleasing was the side salad (and you know my views on salads!); fresh ingredients, subtle dressing, plenty of ripe avocado, and (hurrah!) semi-dried tomatoes among cherry ones. All in all, there was a quality feel to the grub, which perhaps goes some way to explaining the quite high prices.
Thinking back, the menu was imaginatively designed, with each option appetising due to well-chosen accompaniments to the burgers. Again, this is a challenge for someone like me who wants to eat everything on the menu; but it is welcome to see something basic like a burger given a bit of care and thought, whilst not over-complicating or detracting from the meaty slab in the bun.
Overall then, GBK certainly does enough to draw in hungry locals, and substantial food of this nature is of course very good reason to consume equally substantial amounts of wine. See you there sometime! (September 2011)
* * *
Tom is entertained at The Arches
The Arches was excellent last night; I had the special of cod fillet in tempura batter, with chips, and the whole thing was a demonstration in perfect execution - superb - right down to the quality of the rich tartare sauce. Friend loved his smoked duck salad starter and meatball linguine, and we managed dessert too (I'm full of surprises!)
We happily absorbed a Marlborough Pinot Noir, then a Malbec, and "entertainment" was provided via the adjacent table, from where Keith Floyd's apparent long-lost brother proceeded to bombard us with a series of ever more ludicrous tales, whilst his partner looked on, nonplussed. Landing planes without lights in total darkness, unlikely prison terms, unlimited wives, and relatives seemingly inventing everything but the wheel. With his penchant for adventure, I was tempted to politely request that he headed for The Kilburn High Road without delay. (September 2011)
* * *
Tom looks forward to old age
I hope I'm still eating and drinking in La Brocca aged 87!
* * *
Tom loves La Brocca
Enjoyed a double-dose of La Brocca food last weekend... My favourite moments were the gnocchi; bubbling hot, with nips of basil adding occasional zest to an already delicious dish, and the fennel & endive salad, as ever respectfully dressed.
The best was reserved for last though; a quite delightful apple and caramel crumble, which, due to its generous proportions, I was happy to share just for once.
That's a thought... how about a giant-sized apple crumble, as a main meal? See, I'm full of good ideas after a bottle and a half of Shiraz...(September 2011)
* * *
Tom roadtests Spiga
I was pleased to have an opportunity to check out Spiga, the new Italian restaurant on Broadhurst Gardens, especially having drunkenly glanced at the menu in advance via Jonathan’s pre-opening photo exclusive, and seen various things I immediately felt an urgent, pressing need to eat.
In terms of "barometers of quality", bread, olives, and house wine are all good indicators, and we got off to a flying start on all three counts. There was a standard white bread, a rosemary focaccia, and two varieties of "giant crisps" – one pleasingly oily, the other drier, like a poppadom. And big, proud triangles of butter too! The olives were wonderful, in a garlicy oil, the green ones vibrant in colour – luminous almost (v. useful in a power cut).
The house red, a Sangiovese and Merlot blend, went down very easily indeed, earthy soft tannins and not lacking a finish. In hindsight we should have ordered a second bottle, to test its hangover rating. Next time.
To start off the fun I tried the asparagus with poached organic egg and parmesan shavings. Here, I do think a touch of first night nerves were in evidence, with the egg being rather too…errm...soft – the yolk not quite turning from watery to oozing yellowy. However the asparagus was marvellous; giant-size spears and cooked delicately. The dish perhaps needed a pinch of salt, but very enjoyable.
Somehow managing not to overdose on the aforementioned bread, next up was my grilled tuna steak on rocket and mixed peppers, with a sweet and sour balsamic. It’s a combination I’ve had at Base on Baker Street in the past, and was very well executed. The tuna respectfully done; not overcooked, and the balsamic (something I’m not usually mad about) tastefully judged. Just from a personal angle, I’d prefer something a little less sweet, and firmer in texture than the slithery little peppers; perhaps some semi-dried tomatoes? Accompanying my generous tuna was a side of hand-cut chips, and in another pointer to a chef who knows what he’s doing, these were excellent; old-style in size (i.e. not big, fat wedges – not that I dislike those, obviously!) and with a pleasing exterior and a dash of salt. Overall then, a splendid, satisfying main course.
I’m babbling on a bit more than usual (and this is without a drink in hand), but dessert warrants a few details too; a chocolate torte with mascarpone and strawberries – a very generous slice – was delicious. The texture of the pastry was bang-on, with a thick, gooey swamp of dark chocolate on top.
As Jonathan reported, the charming Sandra was all too pleased to chat and tell us a little about their venture, and there was a feeling of combined warmth and confidence in the service, which added to the occasion.
All in all then, a very welcome addition to the local selection of eateries, and I won’t be leaving it too long before heading back there to try the gnocchi… and another slice of the chocolate torte too no doubt.
Welcome, Spiga! (August 2011)
* * *
Tom takes tea at Lena's
I spent an hour chilling out with my brother Bong in Lena’s Café 2 (he’s a campanologist, before you jump to the wrong idea)
I like the bright orange and yellow colour scheme in there, and I’m sure it’s this as well as the remarkable array of salads, and baskets of fruit and vegetables on display, that attracts people passing by and lures them in. I'm also fairly sure the girl who works there thinks I’m a bit of a lunatic (quite reasonable), as several times I’ve marched up and down, closely auditing all the salads and cakes, whilst taking photographs, sometimes from odd, unnecessary angles.
Anyway, despite only purchasing pots of Earl Grey, the manager – who turns out to be the chef too – kindly brought over complimentary baklava. I know they say big hits of sugar aren’t too good for you, but I must say I felt very good indeed after eating mine, and could have happily demolished a couple more. There are lots of nice ideas going on in Lena's, and I look forward to lunch there soon.
PS: Wikipedia helpfully advises that baklava is... "not to be confused with balaclava". Thanks for the advice, Wiki! (August 2011)
* * *
Genetics
In case you wonder where Tom gets his apprecation for food from, this attack by his mum on underwhelming restaurant salads should make it crystal clear:
I have now given up ordering side salads as they tend to be just a small straggle of limp, bitter undressed leaves from one of those endless supermarket packets. For goodness sake, have chefs forgotten how to make a salad and a dressing these days? I'd rather have a plain green salad - almost slugs, worms [well perhaps not these!] caterpillars, blackfly, ants and grit included - than the sorry rubbish that's often served. And if they can't be bothered to make a dressing, then can we please have a bottle of oil and vinegar on the table!Watch out next time she visits Tom in West Hampstead!
* * *
Tom dives into the menu at Mill Lane Bistro
Popped into the bistro for some well-earned dinner... Starters took a fair while - the place was busy and buzzing as usual - but that gave us a chance to savour a fine Languedoc wine, a Picpoul de Pinet that had a mineral edge to it that somehow reflected the ominous end-of-summer weather (not quite sure how, but it did!)
I kicked off the fun with deep-fried Camembert on a beetroot and walnut salad. Very nice, though the "home made" croutons were absent (not that you'd expect bought-in croutons this side of Garfunkel's?!). Tried the baked cod next; an elegant-looking dish, perhaps could have come out of the oven a fraction earlier, but the firm texture worked well on the bed of spinach, I thought. Potatoes too - in a sort of caper butter or something (delicious). The bread was satisfyingly chewy, but comically tiny - I would happily have had three baskets of it - with butter too preferably.
I do love this place as it feels like a proper little slice of France right there on Mill Lane. I find it particularly gratifying to be referred to as "monsieur" (I'm easily pleased!).
Grabbed profiteroles for dessert - wonderful! Two tennis ball sized gems with gorgeous ice cream and chocolate sauce; also a glass of Burgundy that had a really intoxicating nose - next time I'm going to tan a whole bottle of that, been meaning to for a while actually.
Nice to see this place such a success; it's a cheery and uplifting way to start the weekend.(August 2011)
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Tom visits The Arches
I had an impromptu dinner at The Arches last night...good food.. I had a Moroccan chick pea soup to start, then baked whole sea bass - very nice. Excellent sautéed potatoes, with that dry, crisp outside. I wondered if they did those with goose fat or something but the waitress just said "deep fried in oil". Pleasingly large cheesecake to finish, and 4 glasses of Pinot Noir which I was surprised to find later on was Chilean (I thought it was French, but not a Burgundy). Looking back, it did have similarities to that Chilean drop I like to guzzle in Brocca. Checked the bill today, a bit cheeky, the 2nd two glasses were large ones - I was drinking 175s at first - no wonder I have a frigging hangover! (August 2011)
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Tom eats cheese at Mill Lane Bistro
I ate alone - just a cheeseboard - in the bistro last week, and that lovely French girl came straight over to chat and explain the cheeses as if it were a tasting menu. THAT is good service and food. I was a bit miffed they were totally out of all salad items and the cod - even more annoying when the woman next to me turned out to be eating the last of the latter! (August 2011)
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Tom's baffled by La Smorfia
Enjoyed the food, but there were minus points which, given the stiff competition, confuse me. The pizza was very good; really flavoursome and satisfying. One of the ingredients - anchovy - was very sparse. Admittedly this pizza (Trappola) had quite a few toppings, but the anchovy is obviously important. Still, nice food.
Now here's my first gripe; you know my thoughts on side salads - they should not be a token gesture. I ordered a mixed salad, and there was nothing awful about it, basically it felt like some assorted leaves from a supermarket packet. They chose to lob in a few olives, pretty cheap ones. Now, I like those, I buy them, but if you're going to add olives, use proper marinated ones or something. Further, the tomato slices were completely flavourless and out of the fridge. If you go to a restaurant, surely you want it to be as good as, or better than, what you'd do at home? And not just 'good', but interesting. I fail to understand how things like this are given such lack of thought. I am fussy, but this is West Hampstead - the competition is out there and I would guess that other locals would be similarly interested in detail.
Strada have done great side salads on most occasions, and you also get a salt mill with either rock or sea salt - again makes a difference. I had no salt at all on my table.
Nice big glass of pleasing house wine. Good but somewhat blank-faced service - certainly didn't strike me as "ooh - new customer - let's pull the stops out" - though a free little bruschetta bite was appreciated.
No sweet menu forthcoming so I went home. (July 2011)
